First, what are hooded eyes?
Hooded eyes refer to a specific eye shape where the upper eyelid appears partially or almost completely covered by a fold of skin when the eyes are open. This fold of skin, known as the “hood,” hangs over the mobile part of the eyelid, reducing the visible lid space. As a result, the crease line may not be as visible or prominent as it is in other eye shapes. Makeup for hooded eyes can help accentuate the crease line.
Common characteristics of hooded eyes include:
- Reduced visible eyelid space: The hooded eyelid covers a significant portion of the mobile eyelid, making it less visible when the eyes are open.
- Limited or hidden crease: The natural crease of the eyelid may be less defined or hidden due to the presence of the hooded skin.
- Eyeshadow transfer: The hooded skin can cause eyeshadow to transfer or smudge onto the upper lid, making it challenging to achieve a precise eyeshadow application.
- Heavy or droopy appearance: Hooded eyes can give the illusion of a heavier or droopier eyelid, as the hooded skin may push down on the lash line.
While hooded eyes can vary in degree and shape, they are very common. Understanding your eye shape, including whether you have hooded eyes, can help you choose makeup techniques and styles that enhance and flatter your natural features.
When it comes to applying eyeshadow on hooded eyes, there are a few tips and tricks that can help enhance the appearance and make your eyes pop.
Try these 8 simple makeup tricks for hooded eyes, they will look wide open!
- Prime your eyelids: This step will create a smooth canvas, prevent creasing, and help the eyeshadow colors appear more vibrant and last longer. Choose an eyeshadow primer that suits your skin type. Apply a small amount of primer, take a small amount of eyeshadow primer on your fingertip or a brush specifically designed for applying primers. Start by dabbing the primer onto the center of your eyelid and gently blend it outwards using a patting or sweeping motion. Make sure to cover the entire eyelid, including the inner corner and the area just below the brow bone. Blend and set the primer: Use your finger or a clean eyeshadow brush to blend the primer evenly across the eyelid, making sure there are no visible streaks or patches. You can also use a fluffy blending brush to lightly sweep over the primed area to ensure an even application. Give the primer 30 seconds to set. few moments to set and dry before proceeding with the eyeshadow application. Two top rated eyeshadow primers are the NARS Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base or the e.l.f. Cosmetics Putty Eye Primer.
- Transition shade: Begin by applying a matte transition shade slightly above your natural crease. The purpose of a transition shade is to create depth, dimension, and a natural-looking transition between the different eyeshadow shades you use. It helps to prevent any harsh lines or stark contrasts between colors, resulting in a more blended and cohesive eye look. When choosing a transition shade, consider selecting a color that is slightly darker than your natural skin tone. Typically, neutral shades such as soft browns, taupes, or warm beige colors work well as transition shades. However, the specific shade you choose can vary depending on your skin tone, the overall eye makeup look you’re aiming for, and the colors you’ll be using in the crease and on the lid. To apply a transition shade, use a fluffy blending brush and gently sweep the color back and forth in the crease area of your eyelid. Build up the intensity gradually by layering and blending the shade until you achieve the desired effect. The transition shade should seamlessly blend into your skin tone, making it easier to blend other eyeshadows on top without any harsh lines.
- Focus on the outer corner: Concentrate the majority of your eyeshadow on the outer corner of the eye. Apply a slightly darker shade or a crease shade in a windshield wiper motion to add definition and create the illusion of a lifted eye shape. Choose a darker eyeshadow color that complements your desired eye look and coordinates well with the other eyeshadows you’ll be using. Shades like deep browns, plums, or grays are commonly used for crease definition, but feel free to experiment with different colors based on your preferences and the overall look you want to achieve. Dip your small domed brush (I like the Eyeshadow brush for this) lightly into the darker eyeshadow, tapping off any excess to prevent fallout. It’s better to start with a small amount of product and build up gradually to avoid applying too much color at once. Place the brush at the outer corner of your eye, right above the crease. Start by gently sweeping the darker eyeshadow along the crease line in a back-and-forth windshield wiper motion. As you move inward, gradually blend the color towards the center of the eye, softening the edges as you go. Use light pressure and small, circular motions to ensure a smooth transition and even distribution of the color.
- Avoid shimmer on the hood: Shimmery eyeshadows tend to emphasize the hooded area. Instead, opt for matte or satin finishes on the hooded part of the lid. Reserve shimmer for the inner corner or the center of the eyelid to bring light and brightness to the eyes.
- Highlight the brow bone: This helps create the illusion of more space between the hooded lid and the brow. Select a highlight shade that is slightly lighter than your skin tone or matches your skin tone. Opt for a shimmery or satin finish to add a subtle glow to the brow bone area. Champagne, ivory, or pale gold shades are popular choices for highlighting the brow bone.
- Apply eyeliner: One of the best ways to define the eyes without taking up precious lid space is by tightlining the upper waterline. Use a waterproof eyeliner pencil and carefully apply it along your upper lashes or waterline. This technique creates the illusion of fuller lashes and adds subtle definition to the eyes. Keep the line thin: Avoid thick, heavy lines along the upper lash line, as they can make the hooded eyelid appear even smaller. Opt for a thin line that hugs the lash line closely. Instead of traditional black eyeliner, try experimenting with softer and lighter shades. Dark brown, gray, or even colored eyeliners can provide definition without appearing too harsh or heavy on hooded eyes. When applying winged eyeliner, be cautious not to extend the wing or flick downwards. This can accentuate the drooping appearance of the hooded lid. Instead, angle the wing slightly upwards or keep it subtle and close to the lash line.
- Curl your lashes: Curled lashes can help open up the eyes and make them appear larger. Use an eyelash curler before applying mascara to give your lashes a lifted look. Invest in a good quality eyelash curler. Make sure it has a gentle curve and is suitable for your eye shape. A heated eyelash curler can also be an option for those who find traditional curlers ineffective. Open the curler and position it as close to the lash line as possible without pinching the skin. Gently close the curler, being careful not to tug or pull on your lashes. Hold it in place for a few seconds and then release.
- Add mascara: Look for a mascara that offers both lengthening and volumizing properties. This can help create the illusion of longer, fuller lashes and make your eyes appear more open and defined. Hooded eyes are prone to smudging due to the contact between the lashes and the hooded skin. Therefore, opt for a mascara that is smudge-proof and long-lasting to prevent any transfer or smearing throughout the day. Concentrate on the outer lashes to enhance the lifted effect. I like the Thrive Liquid Lash Extensions Mascara or the City Beauty Beyond Mascara.
Remember, these makeup for hooded eyes tips are meant to serve as general guidelines, and it’s essential to experiment and find what works best for your unique eye shape and preferences. Practice and patience and the Local Guide Program will help you refine your eyeshadow application technique over time.
If you need help choosing the right eye shadows and eye liner for your eyes fill out my FREE COLOR MATCH form.
Updated on August 23, 2023